Welcome back to Japanese America! In this episode, hosts Koji Steven Sakai and Michelle Malizaki take the podcast on location to Second Street in the heart of Little Tokyo, Los Angeles, to record inside a true culinary and cultural landmark: Kouraku.
Originally opened in 1976, Kouraku was recently honored by the City of Los Angeles with an official street sign certifying it as America’s oldest operating ramen shop. To celebrate this incredible 50-year milestone, Koji and Michelle sit down with the restaurant’s new owner, Mamoru Tokuda-san, who stepped in to take over the reins in January 2023.
Mamoru-san shares the deeply moving story of how he transitioned from a restaurant career to volunteering at Kouraku during the height of the COVID-19 pandemic, eventually stepping up to preserve the space after the tragic passing of the previous owner, Hiroshi Yamauchi. We also look at the historical roots of Showa-era machi-chuka (Japanese-Chinese comfort food) and why its gentle, balanced flavors have sustained families across four generations.
Note: For this episode, Koji reads the English translations of the interview so everyone can follow along with the history. However, we will also be releasing a separate, uncut companion episode featuring Mamoru-san’s interview entirely in his own words in Japanese.
In this episode, we discuss:
- The Magic of Showa-Era Nostalgia: Michelle explains why old-school Showa-era aesthetic is suddenly “cool” again and how Kouraku’s vintage vibe instantly transports her back to her childhood in Japan.
- Preserving a 50-Year Legacy: How Mamoru-san balanced the pressure of taking over a historic business with the inspiration he drew from Kouraku’s long-term staff—many of whom have dedicated 20 to 30 years to the kitchen.
- The Science of Machi-Chuka Flavors: The culinary reason Kouraku’s stock is kept balanced and gentle, utilizing a chashu-infused soy sauce base rather than the overwhelming flavors of modern specialty shops.
- High-Tech Meets History: The introduction of Luna-chan, Kouraku’s famous cat-themed delivery robot, and how it coexists with an irreplaceable, historic 1980s neon signboard that modern makers can no longer replicate.
- Food as a Cultural Time Machine: Koji and Michelle share their ultimate childhood comfort foods. Michelle reflects on making homemade gyoza with her mother, while Koji opens up about his lifelong obsession with curry rice, sharing a poignant memory of how his father’s experiences in the WWII incarceration camps shaped his relationship with the dish.
Links & Resources Mentioned:
- Visit the Restaurant: Kouraku, Little Tokyo (Los Angeles, CA)
- Learn more about Japanese American history: janm.org
Koji Steven Sakai 